Archive | October, 2017

Darwin 4: Kakadu National Park, every sight a highlight

31 Oct

If you think Kakadu has anything to do with cockatoo, the parrot, you are right. The German word is Kakadu and somewhere in the internet you’ll find a long etymological explanation about the origins of the word. The park is big, almost half the size of Switzerland. The top sights of my trip: Yellow Water Cruise, the rock paintings, the sunset over the wetlands and sitting under Jim Jim Falls.

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red-tailed black cockatoo

In nature I saw more white cockatoos than black ones but I managed to take pictures of the artificial ones only.

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Yellow Crested White Cockatoo

THE CRUISE

Yellow Water is a big billabong, a kind of lake, a cut off branch where once the South Alligator River flowed. Anyway, no alligators here, if you want to get eaten by one, have a swim around the Florida Keys; they are also in China, but there, it’s probably them who get eaten (unreliable info!). Almost all the rivers in the area are called Alligator River, like East -, West – and South Alligator River and they are full of CRO-CO-DILES!

Our cruise captain was an aborigine, funniest guy I met, steering the ship, cracking jokes and explaining at the same time. First thing on board, you have to put a bright, fluorescent life jacket on, in case someone goes overboard. Crocodiles adore bright colours and go after them as soon as they detect them in the muddy water. That way, you won’t drown for sure. But rules are rules, so put that jacket on. Next lesson, the crocs you see are not the dangerous ones, but beware of the ones you don’t see (how do you do THAT?)

When hungry and in a hunting mood they hide, they are practically invisible for potential prey (left picture): when they are basking in the sun they are just warming up and/or digesting. I still wouldn’t go near them, but the ducks don’t seem to worry.

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plumed whistling ducks

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Our guide told us the story of a fisherman in a boat who was imprudent enough to stand up when trying to pull his catch out of the water. From behind a large croc flipped up and grabbed him

end of the story.

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crocodile yawning

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crocodile breathing with its mouth open to ventilate and cool the brain (the tropical sun is hot and human beings are advised to wear bush hats)

NOT ONLY CROCODILES

Falcons, egrets (heron-type bird), brolgas, cockatoos, jacana (Jesus bird, tiny, tiny tiny), Australian darter

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spot-the-jacanas-search-image, there are 2 of them

Jacanas are also called Jesus birds, they are so tiny and light, they can walk on lotus leaves, I don’t know if they are able to walk on water, too (should be, otherwise, why the name?)

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Australian darter, makes me think of Halloween

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I thought this was picturesque

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camouflaged croc, you step on it, before you know, your leg is off

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horses and buffaloes

Hoofed animals are not indigenous in Australia. They were brought in from Europe. Until then, no hoofed animals had ever set “hoof” on the continent, and now they arrived and multiplied: horses, cattle, donkeys, sheep and goats and even deer for hunting and to make the newly conquered land look more like home, like England. These animals trampled all over the continent, damaging the soil, spreading seeds and plants to where they weren’t supposed to be, nibbling everywhere and eating up the plants on which kangaroos and wallabies were feeding, in short, they made a regular mess of the delicately balanced Australian ecosystem.

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Bye-bye Yellow Waters

The rock paintings at “NOURLANGIE ROCK” 

except the name is not Nourlangie but one part is called Burrungguy and the other one Anbangbang, pronounced “boo-rong-goi” and “arn-barng barng”, another thing the white aliens got wrong. Visitors today are asked to use the right names.

Violet Lawson from the Murrumburr Clan: “That’s a place where you are sheltered from the rain in Gudjewk (monsoon season). A place for making tools, telling stories, doing string games while the tucker (food) is cooking. Go hunting down the river, when the water is down a bit. Hunting yams, kangaroos and sugar bag (native bee honey). Waiting around til the dry season comes. Today we got house and still cook galawan (sand goanna) on the coals of open fire.”

Mimis (tall thin fairy-like beings), kangaroos, x-ray style paintings 

Burrungguy and Anbangbang: the first paintings, I got so excited, I took pictures of every little painting

 you have to bend and bow to get to the paintings

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in the soil archaeologists found stone tools and organic objects such as bone, bark string and plant remains, objects that easily decay in tropical climate

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paintings are drawn on top of each other

A sign says: “Art is an important part of traditional aboriginal life. Aboriginal people paint to record events in their lives, to illustrate stories and for fun and enjoyment. some paintings have religious power and can influence the success of a hunt.”

On the way to the next gallery

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A kangaroo and small hollows in the ground: could be for mixing paint or playing games, who knows

but the best is right around the corner

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Try to say this!

There are / were so many different cultures and languages in Australia before the Europeans arrived!

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Wow, the negative imprint of a human hand, how did they do that without a spray can? Easy! Fill your mouth with paint and psssssssh spit it over hand and wall

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a spirit? a monster? a flower?

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Mimis and x-ray art, fact is the people seem to be lying down, are they sick, not feeling well? One theory is that the aboriginal people noticed that whenever they came here, they felt sick after a short time. In fact, uranium was found in the area as soon as the Europeans came snooping around for mineral resources.

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Mamarndjolg and his sister broke the incest laws on the rock ledge above this gallery. Later he became Ginga, the great saltwater crocodile. In aboriginal culture incest laws do not necessarily refer to the same family but extend to community members with the same cultural responsibility and relationships. 

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Namarrgon the Lightning Man: he wears his lightning as a band around him connecting his arms, legs and head. Stone axes on his knees and elbows make the thunder.

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Barrginj is Namarrgon’s wife. she and Namarrgon are parents to Aljurr or the Leichhardt’s grasshoppers which appear as the first storms break.

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Family groups of men and women on their way to a ceremony. flecks on the breasts of the women on the right indicate that they are breast-feeding children. above the groups: Guluibirr, the saratoga fish is popular food fished from the waterways nearby.

Sunset at Ubirr

“You go to look out, see floodplain, bird, sunset. Don’t take any alcohol up there with you. Too dangerous on top of rock, might fall over. Water and camera better. No matter you or Aborigine … Same thing, same law … No drinking at Ubirr.” Bill Neidjie, Bunidj Clan, Aboriginal traditional owner.DSCN6945

continues in my next letter: more rock paintings, Aboriginal stories, and a fantastic sunset

Gerburg

 

 

Darwin 3: off to the National PARKS Litchfield and Kakadu

16 Oct
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This is part of the Top End (just have a look at Litchfield, Kakadu and later Nitmiluk further south)

Prologue

You have to get to the parks somehow.

  • Try to hitch a ride? Doesn’t work. The trip is way too complex if you want to see the highlights
  • Get together with other travelers on a Facebook page for Darwin/Australia Backpackers? Only if you have a lot of time to wait for an opportunity to come up
  • Get together with backpackers from your hostel? Then from one evening to the next morning one of the women meets Prince Charming, the other one gets offered a lucrative job like “prawn fishing” (working in deep sea fishing makes work-and-travel tourists eligible for the renewal of their visa for a second year)
  • Renting a four-wheel-drive on your own is far too expensive!
  • Nothing really works? Then book a tour!

Sounds easy! Your internet connection is feeble? No problem! Go downtown, almost half of all the businesses are travel agencies. In one of them I bought myself a nice package tour to Litchfield and Kakadu, three days, two nights, accommodation, meals (even special meals like gluten-free), guided tours, explanations about nature, rock art, aborigines, everything included, perfect! Once you’ve done your booking, you don’t have to worry about anything. My ATM card stopped working right there, while I was booking. No problem, my pre-payed card seemed to do the job.

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A Dream of a vehicle

Then the young travel agent gave a start:

“Oh my God, I made a mistake!!!!!! Here it says: for participants up to around forty years of age only.”

A r e  y o u  k i d d i n g … talking to me …. or who … too bad young man … too late

– my consciousness was streaming –

hell keep cool just a couple of years no fretting over age calm down what the … me of all people how did he know … I should have never … bloody hell … all my money … cheating me or what

Take it easy, I was slowly coming round again and said:

“Just call the tour operator and tell them, I’m fine.”

(Je …! is that so difficult?)

The poor chap did as I had asked him to and after a long talk of which I only overheard

“she seems okay she looks okay”

{¿ṅ$&@%¤§±#€!!!!!}, he kindly recommended that I should try my best to keep up with the young ones on the tour. I very much appreciated this helpful piece of advice and left  {¿ṅ$&@%¤§±#€!!!!!}.

Australians seem to have a thing about age …

Next morning – I hadn’t even finished my tea yet – the hostel manager told me with his broadest friendliest Chinese smile to call the travel agency as quickly as possible. Something was wrong with my credit card, my payment hadn’t gone through and I might not be able to go on the trip.

Ho-ly sht – I rushed downtown under the scorching sun my thoughts running wild

(me, interiorly monologuing):

  • ha, they’re trying to dump the old lady,
  • bggr, I will never see the outback, never see any kangaroos, dingoes,
  • never admire pieces of ancient rock art
  • never swim in ice-cold plunge pools, never sit under freezing waterfalls,
  • never take pictures of crocs basking in the sun (after having swallowed a travel agent) and cockatoos looking down on humans from picturesque treetops,
  • never ever have a real Dundee adventure,
  • never see a sunset over the wetlands!

a 2-km-walk making me feel ever more hopeless with each step

A delicate, pale, blonde young lady with a slight accent of guesswhere greeted me when I entered the travel agency. She told me she had insisted with the tour operator that I got another chance, that my card probably hadn’t worked because her colleague had made a mistake entering the numbers. Then, confidently, she put herself to the task and made everything work, the payment went through and bingo … I was on … I stayed around to chat a bit and found out that she was from Hamburg. The charming young man from the day before appeared and told me he had almost had a heart-attack when he realized that the payment had gone wrong.

You’re telling me, chap!

THE TRIP

The next morning I tried to be ready a bit ahead of time and really, at 5.55 a.(!) m. the tour guide was there to pick me up. Off we went into the direction of Litchfield Park. From now on my life and that of everybody else in the group was timed to the minute.

This is Georgia:

our guide, a former outdoor education teacher from Melbourne, knowledgeable, conscientious,  hard working, reliable, assertive …

  • Fastest driver on highways and on dirt roads
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at this speed we almost ran over a wallaby (poor little thing)

 

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  • Keen explainer of natural and anthropological phenomena: here talking about Magnetic Termites: tiny, innocuous creatures (not house-eaters), extraordinary architects  aligning their mounds in perfect North – South direction, probably orienting themselves on the magnetic fields of the earth.                                             DSCN6725 It never gets too hot on any side of the mounds, also, the termites move to the more temperate side during the day (and I keep thinking of Dubai and Abu Dhabi architects). With its tunnels, chambers and chimneys made from the yucky recipe of mud, vegetation, termite saliva and excrement each mound is waterproof and air-conditioned and resists as long as the Queen is alive, with a bit of luck up to 40 years. Sometimes these towers get attacked by envious ants determined to kick the termites out and move into their fabulous building. At that point the clever little termite-buggers resort to an efficient strategy to defend their fancy home: they spray a liquid with their own smell onto the intruding ants in order to confuse them and make them turn against each other. (ha-haha-Haaa-ha)

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tiny black ant in the middle, scout or survivor?

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Me among the termite mounds, see how big …

On the left side between the two flat mounds there is a Cathedral type mound. Cathedral termites stay cool because they have hollow columns inside their mounds which provide air – circulation from the cool ground. This keeps the interior from overheating.

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The Cathedral mounds in that area were not as big as in other places but this one is a nice example

Next stop: Wangi Falls

Swimming in the plunge pool or walking through the wilderness? No worries about crocs because they are there mainly during the rainy season and July is dry. With freshies – the shy and slender freshwater crocodiles – you have a fair chance of getting away unharmed or with miner injuries. Salties – the tough and big-toothed saltwater crocodiles, are predators, killers, man eaters and they can sneak far inland during the rainy season and wreak havoc on the unsuspecting swimmer.

See the difference? On the left Fred, the freshy, 1,60 m, needle shaped teeth, lives in  fresh or slightly salty water only. On the right Brutus, the salty, 4 m, Saltwater or Estuarine Crocodile, biggest reptile in the world, he survives in fresh water, too (wow, that would be a real adventure to come across one that’s not behind a fence).

Fred and Brutus, each behind his own fence. I was worried not to come across any crocs, so I took these pictures at a roadside stop.

While the group chose to take it easy (!) and go swimming (!), I decided to give proof of being as fit as a thirty-nine-year-old and went on the Wangi Loop Walk, all around the plunge pool and the falls …

… enjoying the most fantastic views: the monsoon forest with its wines, ferns and fungi, flying foxes hanging from tree tops, Wangi Creek winding towards the fall …

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Spiderweb of the Golden Orb

Mr and Mrs Golden Orb weren’t in at the time. The wife is biiiig, the husband tiny, sometimes getting eaten in the heat of the moment or rather afterwards (..it happens).

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Wangi Falls in “winter” (dry season)

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Hundreds of big bats called Flying Foxes

“Can anybody tell me how they manage to poop on you while hanging head down from the trees?”

Lone walk, silence, nobody, just to give you an idea

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DSCN6749I felt great, but, to tell the truth, it hadn’t been such a tough walk, after all, and I kept asking myself what this fussing about age was all about.

 Florence Falls

That’s where I went for a plunge. The water was clear and refreshing …

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Florence Falls, safe for swimming in the dry season

… and full of black fish that occasionally nibble at you just to see if you are good.

Back to the bus over picturesque Shady Creek Walk

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To end the day another two points about Georgia:

  • Best cook (healthy, quick, delicious meals prepared in the campsite kitchen tent)
  • Firm educator with clear rules: drink water, be punctual (always!), drink water, help with the dishes, drink three litres of water, otherwise no beer (I didn’t care for the beer but the three-litre-rule is right in the tropics), heed the signs and stay five metres away from rivers and creeks and drink water again.DSCN6731

I had a tent all to myself.

Good night and see you in Kakadu National Park

coming up sooooooooon

Gerburg