THE WEIRD SILENCE: Durbar Square, Kathmandu’s broken heart

13 Aug

Approaching Durbar Square through crowded alleyways with small shops and workshops, full of busy buyers and vendors, colourfully clad women, begging children.

 

Whatever you are looking for, you'll find it

Whatever you are looking for, you’ll find it

First thing you see from far away is: Talleju Temple, one of the most extraordinary examples of Newari craftsmanship.

Approaching

a sigh of relief, the heart is there but is it beating?

Foreigners pay the entrance fee, the city needs the money more than ever, but from the Tourism Board you can get a ticket for as long as you stay in Nepal, just bring a foto and your passport.

It’s gods against all odds

lucky temple, it's gods against all odds

lucky temple

Worship is part of everyday life

Praying

Praying

Kal Bhairav, can there be mercy?

Kal Bhairav, can there be mercy?

 

Where zillions of visitors, local and from abroad, were taking pictures, listening to guides in all languages the square is now abandoned.

 

dogs have taken the place of visitors

stray dogs have taken the place of visitors

Many temples are inaccessable

inaccessable temple

the red sign says: restricted area

or totally gone

Vishnu, preserver, protector, did you do that to your own temple?

same temples are simply gone

Saddhus used to sit on the big steps

 

Reconstruction – resignation – helplessness

You see neatly piled up bricks and signboards that show what the buildings or pillars looked like before the earthquake.

 

woman trying to get by selling pigeon food

woman trying to get by selling pigeon food

 

DSCN0267

woman with prayer chain

 

Reconstruction work at the Hanuman Dhoka, the Royal Palace, once a wonderful Museum: scaffolding made of metal tubes not of bamboo, as usual. For the workers: insufficient safety measures.

working at the Royal Palace then Museum

workers risking

 

intentions to work the royal palace

intentions to work on the royal palace

 

The monsoon doesn’t help!

(don't) follow the tour lane

 follow the tour lane?

 

What’s left? For one thing the questionable tradition of having a Kumari, a very young girl revered as a living goddess. (for information, see Internet and Wiki!).

The window where she appears at 4 p. m.

The window where she appears at 4 p. m.

clearly: no photos, you gotta respect the culture! …  what can be done in the name of culture?

strictly prohibited to take a picture of a goddess or a human rights abuse?

strictly prohibited to take a picture of a living goddess or a human rights abuse?

A young man from Bakhtapur tells me, that in his town the girl is is locked away for ten days only, with her parents.

 

The plight of the vendors: no one there who buys …

 

beautiful souvenirs

beautiful souvenirs

 

souvenirs waiting

souvenirs waiting

 

last not least: the picture that probably everybody takes

 

an open wound

an open wound

 

 

once a beauty

once a beauty

 

Greetings from Durbar Square; Kathmandu

Gerburg

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